Design Innovation in Broadloom Weaving: Transformation of a 4-Shaft Loom to an 8-Shaft Loom for Complex Woven Structures

Document Type : Original Article

Authors

1 Department of Industrial Art, Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology, Kumasi, Ghana.

2 Department of Visual and Industrial Art, Sunyani Technical University, Sunyani, Ghana.

3 Department of Industrial Art, Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology, Kumasi, Ghana

4 Department of Visual and Industrial Art, Sunyani Technical University, Sunyani, Ghana

Abstract

This study investigates the feasibility of retrofitting a conventional 4-shaft broadloom into an 8-shaft system as a low-cost innovation for enabling complex woven structures in resource-constrained settings. Guided by a practice-based research design and the Double Diamond framework, the project employed Weave Point software to construct and simulate weave drafts, followed by practical modifications of the loom to test huck-a-back and honeycomb structures. The results indicate that shaft conversion is feasible, producing fabrics that displayed stable interlacements, structurally consistent selvedges, and distinctive patterns under trial conditions. Beyond its technical outcomes, the retrofit represents an example of appropriate technology, reducing reliance on costly imports, prolonging equipment life, and promoting sustainable textile practices. The study further highlights its educational value by expanding opportunities for students and artisans to explore advanced weaves, thereby strengthening problem-solving skills and design innovation. These findings suggest that loom retrofitting can serve as a replicable strategy for weaving education and small-scale textile enterprises, while contributing to broader discussions on sustainability and grassroots innovation in textile design.

Keywords

Main Subjects


Adegbite, S. A., Ilori, M. O., & Aderemi, H. O. (2011). Innovations in the indigenous textile weaving firms in Southwestern Nigeria. The International Journal of Business and Management, 6(12), 243. https://doi.org/10.5539/IJBM.V6N12P243
Ahiabor, R., Awuyah, I. R., & Nyante, B. (2018). Design and construction of a broadloom capable of weaving compound weaves. Arts and Design Studies, 63, p. 1-13.
Ahmed, A. G. M. (2014). Modular duotone weaving design. Proceedings of Bridges 2014: Mathematics, Music, Art, Architecture, Culture, p. 27–34. http://archive.bridgesmathart.org/2014/bridges2014-27.pdf
Akinwonmi, A. S. (2011). Design and construction of a mechanised loom. Research Journal of Applied Sciences, Engineering and Technology, 3(3), p. 159-171. http://www.maxwellsci.com/print/rjaset/v3-159-171.pdf
Bapat, S., Fischer, L., & Malshe, A. P. (2023). Understanding frugal engineering process for frugal innovations: Socially conscious designs for homeless individuals, a case study. Procedia CIRP, 119, p. 266–271. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.procir.2023.03.097
Başaran, F. N., & Bekiroğlu, E. (2023). Study on the alternative weaving patterns on four-shaft looms. Zeitschrift Für Die Welt der Türken, 15(2), p. 181–204. https://doi.org/10.46291/zfwt/150213
Basitha, T. N., Affrilyno, A., & Zain, Z. (2022). Pengembangan kawasan rumah tenun sambas di desa sumber harapan kabupaten sambas. Jurnal Mosaik Arsitektur, 10(2), 339. https://doi.org/10.26418/jmars.v10i2.53906
Benson, A., & Warburton, N. (1986). Looms and weaving. Shire Publications. http://ci.nii.ac.jp/ncid/BB00930965
Buckley, C. D., & Boudot, E. (2017). The evolution of an ancient technology. Royal Society Open Science, 4(5), 170208. https://doi.org/10.1098/RSOS.170208
Chervyakov, V. V. (2023). Pattern weaving: Cultural context and technological practices. Общество: Философия, История, Культура. https://doi.org/10.24158/fik.2023.12.50
Congcong, P., Boshan, G., & Xinyu, C. (2021). Introduction of the environmental protection Concept in Textile Major Education. Journal of Educational Theeory and Management, 5(1), p. 60–63. https://doi.org/10.26549/JETM.V5I1.6471
de Laat, M., & Martens, R. (2019). Practice-based design research to advance teaching and learning practices through situated partnerships. Routledge, p. 147–159.  https://doi.org/10.4324/9780429275692-9
Deyana, V., Ikhsan, A., & Suryani, E. (2020). Perancangan alat bantu sulaman dengan menggunakan metode design thinking di industri rumah tangga sulaman kapalo samek yusnetti. UNIVERSITAS BUNG HATTA, 16(3). https://www.ejurnal.bunghatta.ac.id/index.php/JFTI/article/view/18148
Dimitrovski, K., Demšar, A., & Rolich, T. (2007). Mass customisation in weaving. In International Conference, Intelligent Textiles and Mass Customization, 1, p. 22-32.
Dionisio, R., Malhao, S., & Torres, P. M. B. (2020). Development of a smart gateway for a label loom machine using industrial IoT technologies. International Journal of Online and Biomedical Engineering, 16(04), p. 6–14. https://doi.org/10.3991/IJOE.V16I04.11853
Divyanshi., Kumar, S., & Singh, V. (2022). Constraints faced by loom weavers related to production and marketing of weaved products in Bhagalpur district of Bihar. Asian Journal of Agricultural Extension, Economics & Sociology, p. 249-253. http://doi.org/10.9734/AJAEES/2022/v40i931001
Dwass, S. (2023). The 4 Ds: Double diamond design thinking model. Accessed on August 16, 2025. Available at: https://www.fluxspace.io/resources/the-4-ds-double-diamond-design-thinking-model
Eroğlu, D. Y., & Orbak, âli Y. (2019). Simulated annealing algorithm and implementation software for the fabric cutting problem. Tekstil Ve Konfeksiyon, 30(1), p. 10–19. https://doi.org/10.32710/TEKSTILVEKONFEKSIYON.521944
Faruque, S., & Islam, B. (2021). Evolution of handloom weaving activity in India. Journal of the University of Shanghai for Science and Technology, 23(09), p. 1069–1072. https://doi.org/10.51201/JUSST/21/09627
Fazeli, M., Kern, M., Hoffmann, G., & Cherif, C. (2016). Development of three-dimensional profiled woven fabrics on narrow fabric looms. Textile Research Journal, 86(12), p. 1328–1340. https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517515606361
Felix, S. (2022). Exploring the transformative potential of Practice-based Design Research (PBDR) methods in architectural design pedagogy. Arts Research Africa 2022 Conference Proceedings, WIReDSpace. https://doi.org/10.54223/10539/35908
Ganesan, S., Ganesan, S., Badari Nath, K., & Badari Nath, K. (2019). Design and development of mechanical and electronic jacquard handloom for fine-korai-mat weaving. Springer, p. 335–346. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-6435-8_25
Gaver, W., Krogh, P. G., Boucher, A., & Chatting, D. (2022). Emergence as a feature of Practice-based Design Research. Designing Interactive Systems Conference. https://doi.org/10.1145/3532106.3533524
Habibov, I. (2023). Equipment technologies and materials. Zenodo. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.10335315
Industrial Mega Mart (2024). Understanding the difference between tools, equipment, and machines. Accessed on August 18, 2025. Available at: https://medium.com/@pandeyahardikji/understanding-the-difference-between-tools-equipment-and-machines-16c106b3a8a5
Islam, Md. T., Jahan, R., Jahan, M., Howlader, Md. S., Islam, R.-U., Islam, Md. M. Hossen, Md. S., Kumar, A., & Robin, A. H. (2022). Sustainable textile industry: An Overview. Non-Metallic Material Science, 4(2). https://doi.org/10.30564/nmms.v4i2.4707
King, R. S., Mensah, H., Simpeh, E. K., & Nerquaye-Tetteh, E. (2023). Exploring the Kente weaving industry to drive smart community development in Ghana. SN Social Sciences, 3(12), 205.
Kumar, S., & Singh, V. (2022). Constraints faced by loom weavers related to production and marketing of weaved products in Bhagalpur district of Bihar. Asian Journal of Agricultural Extension, Economics and Sociology, p. 249–253. https://doi.org/10.9734/ajaees/2022/v40i931001
Kumpikaitė, E., Kot, L., & Vizbaras, M. (2015). Development of a weaving method for spatial two-layer innovative structure linen fabric. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 23, p. 68–71. https://doi.org/10.5604/12303666.1167422
Lin, J.-L. (2023). An innovative design for draw looms with an Open-Type Heald. Engineering Proceedings, 55(1), 36. https://doi.org/10.3390/engproc2023055036
Lin, R., Chiang, I.-Y., Taru, Y., Gao, Y.-J., Kreifeldt, J. G., Sun, Y., & Wu, J. (2022). Education in cultural heritage: A case study of redesigning Atayal weaving loom. Education Sciences, 12(12), 872. https://doi.org/10.3390/educsci12120872
Malarkodi, M., Indumathi, V. M., Deepa, N., & Divya, K. (2020). Analysing constraints of handloom weavers in the western zone of Tamil Nadu using the rank-based quotient technique. International Journal of Farm Sciences, 10(3&4), p. 79-82.
Mamdouh, F., Reda, M. M., El-Aziz, H. A., & Othman, H. (2022). Overview of different fabric structures. Egyptian Journal of Textile and Polymer Science and Technology, 19(2), p. 291–306. https://doi.org/10.21608/jtcps.2022.152641.1131
Martins, N. C. (2017). Loom: Unifying Client-Side web technologies in a single programming language. Faculdade De Ciencias E Tecnologia, Univeridade Nova De Lisboa. https://run.unl.pt/bitstream/10362/55173/1/Martins_2017.pdf
Nanda, U., & Wingler, D. (2020). Practice-Based research methods and tools: Introducing the design diagnostic. Herd-Health Environments Research & Design Journal, 13(4), p. 11–26. https://doi.org/10.1177/1937586720945176
O'Brian, R. (1999). Who weaves and why? Weaving, loom complexity, and trade. Cross-Cultural Research, 33, p. 30-42.
Olive, P. F., Mahendran, K., Lavanya, S. M., & Devi, H. D. (2021). An empirical analysis of constraints faced by the handloom weavers and weaver cooperative societies in Virudhunagar district of Tamil Nadu. Current Journal of Applied Science and Technology. https://doi.org/10.9734/cjast/2021/v40i4531626
Örnekoğlu, M., Emmanouil, M., Grizioti, M., & Van Langenhove, L. (2022). Using online games in textile engineering education. Advances in Science and Technology, 113, p. 155–161. https://doi.org/10.4028/p-p79su1
Patnaik, J., & Bhowmick, B. (2018). Appropriate technology: Revisiting the movement in developing countries for sustainability. World Academy of Science, Engineering and Technology, International Journal of Civil, Environmental, Structural, Construction and Architectural Engineering, 12(3), p. 246–250. https://publications.waset.org/10008726/appropriate-technology-revisiting-the-movement-in-developing-countries-for-sustainability
Pearce, J. M. (2012). The case for open-source appropriate technology. Environment, Development and Sustainability, 14(3), p. 425–431. https://doi.org/10.1007/S10668-012-9337-9
Saad, E., Elekyaby, M. S., Ali, E. O., & Hassan, S. F. A. E. (2020). Double diamond strategy saves time in the design process. International Design Journal, 10(3), p. 211-222.
Shafie, S., Kamis, A., & Ramli, M. F. (2021). Sustainability of fashion apparel toward environmental well-being and sustainable development. Journal of Vacational Education Studies, JOVES, 4(1), p. 60–78. https://doi.org/10.12928/JOVES.V4I1.3638
Shenton, J. (2014). Woven textile design. Laurence King Publishing.
Spruce, J. (2021). Reflections on a project-based approach to work-related learning in spatial design. Design Principles and Practices, International Journal of Design Education, 15(1), p. 101-117.
Sychugov, A. N. (2022). Evaluation of the manufacturability of “Shaft”–type parts with the use of complex methods. Materials Research Proceedings, 21, p. 460-465. https://doi.org/10.21741/9781644901755-75
Vidgedor, D., Akrofi, M., Bruce-Amartey Jnr, E., & Howard, E.K. (2024). Integration of counter shaft shedding mechanism into indigenous two-heddle loom: A novel approach. fashion and textiles review. Fashion and Textiles Review, 5, p. 40-57. https://doi.org/10.35738/ftr.v5.2024.03
Xie, B. (2022). Critical thinking and problem solving. ICERI Proceedings. https://doi.org/10.21125/iceri.2022.0986
Zhao, F., Wang, Y., Luo, Q., Long, B., Zhang, B., Xia, Y., & Xie, T. (2016). Mechanism of Laoguanshan pattern looms from late 2nd century BCE, Chengdu, China. (pp. 209–221). HMMS, 32, p. 209-221. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-31184-5_19